Nuts for Doughnuts in Sydney
I have a theory on food - sell a memory and you will retire early. With the children of the Donut King era now grown up, the time is ripe for a doughnut comeback… Here is our roundup of the best, and worst contenders waiting to take you back down memory lane....
Glazed Polish Doughnut with Plum Jam Filling
The bold and the beautiful of the Eastern suburbs line up for Polish Paczki (pronounced ‘ponsh-key’) at Queen Street’s newest and most glamorous Deli/Cafe with the same fervour with which they line up for their designer bags. Take a seat in the dining room and you’ll see what I mean. Like the Hermes totes strewn across the dining room floor, these Paczki are the real thing. Lighter than most doughnuts from the addition of yeast in the recipe, their texture is more luxuriously brioche than oil-simmered dough, and, just like the Cartier-laden ladies that eat them, these little gems are elegantly glazed over and contain a dark, oozy, (plum jam) secret inside.
Grapefruit Iced Doughnut
This is the kind of doughnut that I fancy people who use Aesop would like. By that I mean the Rittenhouse-swathed mob that have outgrown vanilla scent in their soap and moved onto parsley seed and geranium leaf instead. I’m sure someone thought that grapefruit icing made this specimen more of a ‘thinking man’s doughnut’. The trouble is that they didn’t extend their thought process any further. The exterior on this one was past the ideal golden point, its texture as limply stodgy as a handful of wet tissues. And, like that overpriced soap, the experience of a ‘real fruit’ icing on a doughnut is just oddly medicinal.
Doughnut with strawberry jam and cream
It’s difficult to find a Krispy Kreme store in Sydney anymore. Thank goodness. Located at either the airport or Central station, the only people who eat these seem to be either tired and desperate travellers and/or Americans. I pity the former and I wouldn’t even wish them on the latter. The dough tasted as if someone had done a batch of fish and chips in the oil before they did the doughnuts. The jam was of a hue and sweetness that made the Cottees stuff taste like real strawberries in comparison and the welcome surprise of cream in the filling was as terribly, wincingly artificial as spelling of the brand’s name.
Cronut with strawberry jam filling
There is no mistaking the fact that the cronut is the doughnut of gen-y. Like us youngsters that have grown up believing anything can be ours, with brash optimism the cronut marries the airy, Gallic chic of a croissant with 'bite me' factor of a fried dessert. Brewtown Newtown pulls of the their execution of the cronut with a neat stack of flaky layers that melt on impact and a bright jam that cuts through nicely. Be warned though, you might want to gather a friend or three to share this with.
By Christina Gee