Designer Amber Smith may not yet be a household name but we firmly believe that she has everything it takes (talent, skill, determination all combined with her ever so approachably cool demeanor) to make it big in the world of Fashion.

Upon the release of her recent graduate collection we caught up with Amber to see what’s next on her creative cards.

What inspired the collection?

If you are into history (which I am) the collection is based on artist Sabine Pearlman. She dissects bullets from World War 1 and 2. She cuts these crusty old dirty bullets and you see the intersection of them. It’s crazy intricate.

I was also inspired the video clip called Pursuit by Gesaffelstien. The song is all about people in all different scenarios in pursuit. It’s got a really cool sound as well.

Where can you find your pieces?

In my closet! I am not yet selling them. This was my graduate collection so I’m still a bit attached to them.

Do you have a muse?

I really like Alexander Wang, I like Rick Owens and Yoji Yamamoto. As for Australian designers I love Ellery and Dion lee.

Can you describe your aesthetic?

What I like in design is pieces that when you look form afar they look basic, but when you get closer you see intricate detail so dark but edgy and minimalistic.

I like to make the collection unisex, I usually base a lot of the silhouettes around menswear as menswear is often confined to that shift shape which works quite well for both men and women.

Tell us about your process?

So I sketch, I take basic blocks and I’m generally quite rough with it. I will take the basic blocks and start draping and just draw on it. Then I will literally chop away at it and look at it on a toile, see what I get, sometimes the lines that I get wont be the lines on my toile but I will add them in as I am cutting and draping.

When you aren’t designing what are you up to?

I used to play soccer but I broke my elbow. I like drawing and walking. Just relaxing when I get a chance.

Favourite color?

Black – even though it’s not a color technically

Favourite city?

Paris or Tokyo. I do think Japan is so under-rated, when you go there it’s amazing.

Favourite  artist?

I really like James Jean. http://www.jamesjean.com/

Whats next for Amber Smith?

I want to travel, I really would like to do a Europe stint…. but I don’t know if I’ll come back!

What keeps you motivated?

I just love it (fashion) everything about it…I honestly can’t imagine doing anything else.

What advice do you have to other up and coming designers?

Just keep at it! I found that a lot of the time when you are designing you can get really frustrated especially when you are sewing, it comes out different to what you originally though but keep at it eventually you get there. Most of the times I am happier with the end result than the initial idea of how I imagined it would turn out.

By Maria Maung - Photography by Daniel Knott  

The Sydney Fashion scene is an ever-changing landscape of innovation and creativity.  It takes young blood to shake things up and push new directions in re-defining Austalian Fashion.

Meet Sydney based designer Mr Yousef Akbar. Upon launching his first Spring Summer 2015 collection at Mercedes Benz Australian Fashion Week, this designer is definitely one to watch. His highly conceptual collection breaks the boundaries of traditional tailoring and challenges the concept of classic silhouettes, yet his clean fluid design lines make each statement pieces utterly wearable.

BYO caught up with Yousef to take a closer look and a walk through his collection off the runway.

Describe your signature?

I like to focus on cut and color in every collection regardless of the theme. It’s about creating new cuts that are not conventional. It has always been my strong point to develop new silhouettes and do things which were not taught.

Tell us about the inspiration for your latest collection?

My latest collection is inspired by British Artist Francis Bacon. I first saw his works at the retrospective exhibition when it was in Sydney at the end of 2012 / beginning 2013 and I was so impressed by it.

I just saw the way he worked, he would rip up faces of the people he would paint, re arrange and distort them but you could still recognize the person without it getting lost.

I did the same thing with this current collection, I would take a picture of a simple dress and rip it and rearrange it to see what lines it would make. These new lines would make the seams, the panel lines or a new silhouette. I would see shapes come to surface. There was a lot of experimentation.

I also like the combinations of colours used, the contrast and harmony. He (Francis Bacon) also painted his subjects inside glass cubes, which gave me the idea of the Perspex rods in my collection. The rods are actually holding a lot of the pieces together. They act as a closure.

What would you say are the key materials in the collection?

Definitely the Perspex, I have digitally printed and bonded a lot of my own fabrics so there are a lot of bonded fabrics, ombre and sequins.

How did you get into Fashion?

I never thought to study fashion.

I always loved fashion, when I was a little kid I used to cut off my sleeves, paint a palm print on my t-shirts and my mum used to get so mad, but I never knew you could study it.

I came to Australia to study a business degree.  I originally studied a Bachelor and Masters of Logistics. Then one day I saw an ad on Facebook to study fashion and I had to look into it further.

Tell us about your world?

Usually I never wake up early … this (interview) is the first thing I’m doing today but I sleep very late around 4 - 5am

I’m always reading about new things and gaining inspiration from history and art.

At the moment I’m reading about the Egyptian dynasty, the kings and queens of Egypt during the Victorian era. I find it quite interesting

If I am working on a collection, my day will be 100% from waking up to sleep, focused on the collection. The times I’m not working on designing a collection I’m promoting my collection or sales and sending emails.

It’s not that exciting, just my friends and I. It looks very exciting but it’s really not.

What are the challenges you have faced as a designer?

Finding out after graduating that the bubble of school is so different to getting out into the industry. I can’t stress and describe how different it is.

People have always said it’s going to be difficult and the Fashion industry is not easy to get into.

I showed my collection at Fashion Week and received great press. I received a lot of interest from overseas however I found Australian shops and buyers are reluctant to support new designers.

When I was a student I was always worried that press would be difficult but press has been so supportive.

You’ve made such a great impact for your first season.

Despite the challenges the one thing I am sure of is that I’m not stopping.
I just have to keep true to myself and I can’t lose my aesthetic.

Who would you say are the people who inspire you or muses?

There isn’t a particular person, but the people who inspire me are the people I love, my friends, my mother, my mother is such a strong woman. In terms of creative muses I love the notion of people in power, kings and queens, emperors. I always find them fascinating.

Muses are always changing, honestly depending on my mood, sometimes it will be an actress, sometimes a singer, it really just depends.

What’s next for your label?

Hopefully continue to do womenswear and 100% do menswear.
I design my own personal menswear so I definitely need to bring that out.

If you could collaborate with anyone who would it be?

Nick Knight of Showstudio. He is the one who pioneered the whole revolution of Fashion film and photography, he’s the one who made it so big. I think he is so clever with the way he shoots his videos and his photography is amazing.

By Maria Maung

For more on Yousef Akbar check out:
Website: http://www.yousefakbar.com/
Instagram: @mr_yousefakbar
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/yousefakbarofficial

BYO recently caught up with Myles K. of Sydney street style blog Keishikibi to talk about his take on Sydney fashion and his soulful approach to capturing signature snapshots.

Tell us how you started as a photographer?

I got my first camera as a present from my dad when I went on holiday on Dubai. It was Christmas ’11 and I was keen on photographing what was supposed to be my final year (2012) at uni. I wanted to produce a personal, visual journal of what it was like to conclude a chapter in life, the student life, and the eventual transition into the working world. Things didn’t really go as planned; I ended up graduating in 2013 and that whole idea didn’t materialize (un)fortunately.

Soon after arriving back to Sydney, I ended up being drawn to the street photography genre. Something about the idea of documenting the world around me fascinated me much more than a self-indulgent project about how I was finishing my student life. I took my first street photograph some time in early February 2012. Back then it was just a photograph of life happening, not the street style that I do today. But ever since then, I guess that’s when I called myself a photographer.

Tell us a bit about your approach to street style?

I usually go out with the intention of having a nice stroll around Sydney. And if I see someone wearing something that catches my eye, I take a candid photograph of him/her. I do sometimes ask for permission to photograph someone but it isn’t something I do that often. I’ve always been somewhat shy to talk to strangers since I was young. I’m definitely better at that now but still not 100% confident enough just yet.

Sometimes, I decide to linger around specific areas around Sydney during certain times of the day, but this is mostly due to either there being good light in that spot or if there isn’t a huge crowd where I’m photographing; both of these things are important to me as it usually determines whether I get a good photo of someone at the end of the day.

What are the things you notice first when you see a subject?

Hmm… I can’t really pinpoint what makes me notice someone or something other than the thought in my head that tells me, “That looks like a cute/elegant/eccentric/striking/standout outfit on that person!” And I guess that’s a good thing. I feel that by leaving it as is makes me pay attention more on the street. Also, I love the idea of being surprised by what people might be wearing when I go out.

Are there things you are drawn to?

I’m drawn to things that fit in with Japanese aesthetics; Wabi-Sabi, Yugen, Miyabi, Shibui, etc. All of which have the idea of drawing beauty through simplicity. I’ve always been intrigued by the notion of creating something sophisticated and refined out of a simple idea or act. Not saying that I dislike complexity, I love it. But simplicity fits well with my way of life.

What does style mean to you?

I guess I would liken it to a signature. Everyone has their own unique way of signing things. And style, in the context of fashion… It’s a physical, visual version of it; an expression of you, your personality, your opinion, a way of telling people who you are without needing to say a word.

Are there trends you see popping up on the street that we should note?

Right now, it’s pretty hard to say that there are any trends appearing just yet, mostly because Australia’s in this transitional period between Summer and Autumn. So the general public seems to be trying to cater for both seasons. But I have noticed storefronts mostly displaying solid colours for the upcoming autumn/winter seasons. Maybe that’s the next trend? Lots of black too.

Tell us about your universe?

My universe revolves around photography, music, technology, documentaries, movies, philosophy, and of course, fashion. It always surprises people when I tell them I did an engineering degree, am a bit of a geek, listen to metal, and shoot street style. But then again, it’s pretty uncommon for an engineering student to be interested in fashion to begin with from what I’ve seen.

Who and what inspires you?

People inspire me. Though it may be such a cliché answer, it’s my answer. I’ve always loved wanting to know people, their ideas and lives, their stories. Not in a gossip magazine kind of way, but more in a documentary sense where you learn about how things works or how some people live the way they live. I’m always amazed by the fact that there are so many people in the world, so many great stories that we’ve probably never heard of or read. And it’s all there, waiting to be discovered and to inspire us.

What does a typical day for you involve?

A typical day for me usually involves a lot of reading and watching videos, and uploading a photo a day on my website. I’m an avid consumer of information, regardless of what it’s about. So one minute, I might be catching up on technology news. The next minute, the latest post by a fashion blog I follow. And then after that, watching the news. I always find something to consume so my time flies pretty quickly.

Favourite designer/artist/photographer?

Hmm… I can’t pick one absolute person so I’ll divide the answer to three parts.

Favourite designer would definitely be Rick Owens, re: Japanese aesthetics. Though, Svetlana Bevza comes a close second.

Favourite artist…Alphonse Mucha. I love how his artworks fool your mind with the constant battle between the 2D elements and the 3D elements.

Favourite photographer… I’m torn between so many since I love the works of a great number of them. I’ll just list some of them. Otherwise it’ll be too long of a list. Henri Cartier-Bresson, Alex Webb, Trent Parke, Jacob Aue Sobol, Saul Leiter, Guy Bourdin, Norman Parkinson, Helmut Newton, Brian Duffy, William Klein, and of course, Bill Cunningham, the ‘father’ of street style photography.

Are there other favourite subjects to photograph outside the realm of people and Fashion you love to shoot?

Not really. I do at times take photos of sceneries and animals, but that’s usually in the context of some personal documentary work that I’d be working on. I spend most of my time either photographing street style or exploring what a camera is capable of creating when the shutter button is pressed.

What next for Keishikibi?

Right now, Australia’s Fashion Week is approaching so I’m getting ready for that. Other than that, I’m keen on seeing what I can do with my website besides just taking candid photos of people. I’m also interested in going to other cities around Australia to photograph the street style there. But that’s something I’m contemplating at the moment.

Check out more of Myle’s Street style on:

www.backyardopera.com

www.keishikibi.com

Instagram: @streetstyleaustralia

By Maria Maung

Canberra’s growing creative hub makes its mark on Australian Fashion with Fashfest. BYO caught up with Producer Steven Wright to find out more about behind the scenes.

Can you describe what you're looking for when selecting designers to showcase at the event? Are there certain criteria that need to be met? 

We have an open application policy which means any designer who meets the criteria can apply. The applications go through an independent industry panel of fashion experts to be ranked and recommendations are put forward to FASHFEST. Final selections are then made the FASHFEST Executive. This gives our application and selection processes a transparency that is second to none. We select designers on their current standing in the industry (most of our designers have established labels) and provide support to those who have potential. Part of our role is to support and build the industry. We do so by offering professional workshops and mentoring in all aspects of the industry, from model management and public relations to finishes, fit and supply chain management.

In your opinion, how important is diversity in fashion? Is diversity a key difference between FASHFEST and something like Mercedes Benz Fashion Week? 

Diversity is not just important in fashion it IS fashion. It is the ability of an individual to find something that reflects their personality, communicates them as a person and makes them feel great. This is a wonderful thing. Diversity and individuality is what makes the fashion industry tick. Diversity is vitally important to FASHFEST. We make it a point to reflect contemporary Australian society in everything we do. This is why you will see mature models, ethnically diverse models and models with non-traditional body shapes walk the catwalk in 2014. It’s also why you will see designers who target a wide range of age groups and body shapes. One of our designers, for example, caters to women 60 years and above. This is one of the key differences in what we do as an organisation and other events.

Name a few local designers that we should keep our eyes on, and briefly mention what it is about them that make them unique.

Rockstars and Royalty www.rockstarsandroyalty.com.au

Their aesthetic is a mix between Marie Antoinette and Debby Harry. Designer Vicky Kidd-Gallichan has a background in sculpture so she designs her garments using a structural technique similar to architecture, which is a strong foundation overlayed to create the final product. Her three-dimensional garments are stunning and were a stand-out last year. I’m more than a little excited for her new collection.

Perpetually Five www.perpetuallyfive.com/

The Perpetually Five aesthetic is fun, joy and creativity all rolled into one. Designer Mitch Thompson was that weird kid you see at school who turns out to be a genius. He uses digital printing techniques and non-traditional fabrics to re-fashion the boring side of menswear into something that celebrates weird kids everywhere.

Hijab House http://hijabhouseonline.com.au/

This is one of the most exciting labels to have as part of FASHFEST in 2014. This is what makes Australia great—a diverse, exciting and culturally appropriate label such as Hijab House. The aesthetic is sleek and modern—urban clothing for a young and diverse group of Muslim women. The garments are fashion forward, modest, stylish and beautifully made. They inspire confidence and a pride in their consumer which makes me happy.

What other creative/fashion events can Canberra look forward to this year? 

Canberra is full of creative fashion events. Every week offers something new and exciting, including  fashion.

There are great weekly events at the innovative pop-up shop Three Little Birds and Little Boy Blue www.facebook.com and always something happening fashion wise at Lonsdale Street Traders http://www.canberratimes.com.au/act-news/a-guide.

My two favourite boutiques, Assemblage Project (www.hercanberra.com.au/index.php/2013/08/27/assemblage-project/  and Department of the Exterior www.hercanberra.com.au/index.php/2012/11/05/retail-review- supply innovative designs that go from the latest fabric technology to the attractiveness of pit-bulls. In April we are all heading to the fashion-specific designer twilight market Hustle&Scout hustleandscout.com.au/ to find something great to wear at FASHFEST. At Hustle&Scout FASHFEST will be hosting a live photo shoot with Haus Models, bringing food and fashion together as part of the The Forage (www.facebook.com/theforageat ).

We have just had Art not Apart newacton.com.au/ana and are about to finish You are Here youareherecanberra.com.au/.

The creativity never ends. Later this year, after we have all recovered from FASHFEST, we will relax at the Truffle Festival trufflefestival.com.au/ with a new batch of Canberra craft beers and local wines (http://edenroadwines.com.au/).

Anything else that you'd like to add?

FASHFEST is like nothing you have ever experienced. It is a bespoke, innovative and completely designed fashion experience. We talk a big game because we deliver a big event. Canberra has grown out of the “I visited it when I was 10” mentality and become a fully formed creative hub that is fully capable of flexing its muscles. I have worked in fashion for more than a decade and FASHFEST is totally new and totally outside of the traditional fashion system. I invite anyone to come to the event and see for themselves. Canberra is cold in April and May so, bring a jacket.

By Lucy Rennick