2014 Menswear You May Have Missed
It’s only March and EVERYTHING you bought last year is already out of date. We’ve seen some big trends in fashion. Adidas got ‘Ricked’ up. We saw the valiant return of Raf Simons (as a good label), and the retirement of Ann Demeulemeester. We saw Alexander Wang take a cruise down the Hudson River, and Ricardo Tisci took the game courtside. We even saw Kanye West launch his second line with A.P.C. We’ve seen a lot of big names doing a lot of big things. But we also missed a lot, here’s something’s that didn’t get the attention they deserved in men’s fashion this year.
I’ve been watching PATH-HOMME, and I usually cite it as my favorite up and coming brand, although I won’t be able to call them ‘up and coming’ for long. The German born designer Janine Grosche, now living in Beijing, has had a very big year this year. Not only has she launched their new line ‘presence’ for SS14, which feels like Givenchy SS14 done right, but they’ve also started selling through their own online store, and now on Hypebeast as well as their old friends Not Just Another Label. As far as high fashion goes, PATH is very well priced; about a year ago they made me a pair of custom silk pants for under $200 while their most expensive item this year is close to $500.
FEAR OF GOD
With only their second collection out, FEAR OF GOD have also had a fantastic year, developing the beginnings of a cult around their simple, cool, elegant approach. The models look like they are at the end of a very long drug trip, tired and chain smoking their way to sunrise, but they look awesome. I tried to explain to someone the other day how a men’s skirt could look manly, They were convinced by FEAR OF GOD.
JAN VAN VANESSCHE
While Belgium born Vanessche is little young to be in the Antwerp Six, the designer has definitely earned his stripes, and a Dries Van Noten award, named after a designer who IS in the Antwerp Six. His latest collection comes in as his fourth while not my favorite, there isn’t yet a Vanessche line I didn’t like. Maybe if Ann D. is out of the game for good Vanessche can take her spot with the crew.
Julian Zigerli is a Zurich based menswear label that I have only just become aware of, but am pretty thankful for. In a fashion climate where Rick Owens and his goth ninja minions are taking over, here’s a label that isn’t afraid to play with color, they aren’t using dark tones, they are going wild. I’m down with that.
Those of you, who have adopted the bright clothes associated with W.I.A., appropriated Nike, and KTZ, will go crazy for Nasir Mazhar. Not much else to say, but Mazhar is definitely a name to watch.
Reim has a great website and a question mark for an about section. Who is he? I don’t know, but the clothes and campaign for the first campaign, are great.
Cottweiler is a British label focusing on “simplicity, function, and fit,” just like everyone else right now right? Wrong, they do it very well, and with a little more punk. Get amongst it.